Skye, Boat, Song and Tea A Traveller's Tale #24

It was 1962 in the highlands of Scotland. My family was halfway through a 5,000-mile road trip around the British Isles visiting craftspeople and heritage sites, for which my father Peter Cape had received a grant from the Imperial Relations Trust. Edinburgh and Culloden Moor were behind us. Ahead lay the Isle of Skye. My father's diary takes up the story.

September 10, 1962, Monday An early start: away at 10.15. Run through moorland and then by coast. Spent time looking at St. Margaret's chapel (which didn't seem to be an historic monument at all), and finding a barrel by the sea. Late Thurso for shopping beforehand (St Marg's at Forss) - to see a queer man /woman in an antique shop - showed us a scoggie and a luggie (bowl and dipper) in wood. On to Reay, where we saw and ph. (photographed) Dounreay Atomic Research site (guide a patient old Scot in kilt). Then lovely run through hills, moors and coastline to Tongue. Bought petrol and turned inland towards Lairg. (have ph. mountains before turning). Past Loch Loyal and up into hills – see glacial stone dating from ice-age – then to Altnaharra (ph. burn) (stream) and through peatlands being drained. Deep ploughing. Into Lairg to see Ross handweaver. Ph. 300-year-old loom (first with flying shuttle ), got samples, had malt at pub, and out on Rosehall road to camp in moors by tarn. Lit peat fire to scare midges.

September 11, 1962, Tuesday A hideous beginning today with clouds of biting midges, undeterred by peat smoke. Ph. camp and moors, then a long series of ph's - Suilven and Canisp. (Mountain names). Over hills to Loch Brora (ph. island), Ullapool (ph. both sides). Shocking tourist "can't care less approach", and food very dear. Down loch to Braemar, then on to secondary road by Dundonnell, Aultbea, Gairloch. Ph. coast of Little Loch Broom, and at Gruinard Bay (two ph.) ph. mountain and stream, Tournaig, Poolewe, and a loch just out of Poolewe. Wonderful magnificent country. Camped chilly by a mountain top, in a shingle pit, above Loch Maree. Stage mauve in sunset, and Gairloch quite beautiful. Bought Barbara a Luckenbooth ring to wear as an engagement ring (pro tem) at Ullapool.

Another cold night – on gravel, with wind blowing down our necks and the tent walls banging our heads. Crabby getaway at 10.30, to ph. Loch Maree (loch with pine coned islands). Shopped expensively at single store in Kyleloclewe (Kinlochewe) then to top of pass for lunch. (Ph. Maree again). On to Achnasheen for petrol, water, and a litterbag, then through moors and mountains, collecting stones on the way, to Strome ferry. Ph. old castle with Skye in background. The ferry boats, which have turntable decks (Queensferry, Edinburgh has side entrances ).Cost 10/- to cross. On to Kyle of Lochalsh to cross to Skye – 16/6 return. Bang goes budget – camped by waterside in chilly wind. Want to try to ring Dunvegan in evening: queued for phone then got given wrong number, then couldn't get through.

What with ironing and getting prettied up to see Dame Flora Macleod (D.F.M) we didn't get away until 11.30 (I drove into village to ring D.F.M., and we were asked to tea). Drove through a shower to Ardvasar where we saw a very shy blacksmith who does magnificent wrought iron work. Lunch on pier (guarded by two geese) and back quickly. Ph. point and lighthouse at Isle Ornsay. Fast trip to Portree, shopped a bit and bought paperknife made by Ardvasar smith. Saw models of Skye cottages (stone walls with thatch all way round) and a by way of shaggibeasts to see Dame Flora at Dunvegan. Visit a disappointment – said 4.30 for tea – then says "see around castle" – has guides to do so. All family history. Then have tea – stale scones - bought cake, and run out of milk. D.F.M. too deaf to talk to – still, B. (Barbara) makes a hit. Meet rest of family. Away by 6 to have drink in pub with Scottish farmers: much preferable company. Camped by Fairy Bridge – cook scotch sausage meat full of oatmeal, then bed. B. hears voices talking Gallic, but hears no footsteps. Faeries!

(My father may have been disappointed by the castle tour but I wasn't. I saw Bonnie Prince Charlie's thumb bone under glass and was able to hold and feel the immense weight of a real suit of chain mail armour.)

September 14, 1962, Friday Wind starts at 4 - my lilo goes down. Have to lash umbrellas together to hold up tent! A wet and cold start, but rewarded, as we go back to Portree, by a faint view of Lewis (ph.) and a lovely group of Highland shaggibeasts (ph. twice). Shopped in Portree, after looking at Pringles Skye factory. Ph. Portree, and out to lunch on road overlooking Cuillins (mountain range) in freezing gale. Ph. Shetland cottages – thick stone walls and thatch, and to Kyleakin. Telegraphed Smiths saying we'd be late. Across ferry and bought food and petrol (not much cheaper than in Portree) and off around lochs. Lovely castle and loch (ph) Duich. Beautiful area. Climb pass in rain, and camp. Sandfly pestered, in Glen Moriston. First night since the 11th that the children didn't have a fire.

September 15, 1962, Saturday No lilos went down, and it stopped raining. A wind disposed of our midges while we packed – must get to Fort William (Rural Industries exhibit there) – and off driving Glen Moriston. See river – hills (ph). See hydro works and ph. island in river below dam (must get to Fort William!). On to intersect on Loch Ness: decide to slip up to Inverness to see new gallery of craft goods (just a short time – 30 miles – must get to F.W). Drive Hell for leather and aim (after ph. Fort Urquhart on loch) at 12.25. Car needs grease: Garage bloke suggests Ford agents – they shut at 12, but owner says to Scot's workman who I met at door: grease her buckshee if you like. Suggests I give Scot (delightful bloke) 10/- and Jim will make no charge. Do so gratefully (still thinking of F.W) (Fort William). Shop. Find Cuchullin Handloom Weavers – buy broaches for B. and her mother and Olive. Back to car (must get away). Drop in to see silversmith – wonderful craftsman – talk and buy B. a silver and rose-quartz brooch. Go to see his rings in market. See New Gallery now open. Buy dirk and dolphin ring – wonderful workmanship on dirks, made by crofter. Makes all, even blades. Out on south side of L. Ness. (Loch Ness). Ph. Foyers River. Camp in wonderful site by river further on, under silver birches.

[We looked for Nessy, the Loch Ness Monster, but as usual she proved elusive. Olive is my father's mother. My mother's mother, Gladys Henderson, has Macleod as her maiden name and is the link to the Clan Macleod of Macleod and Dunvegan Castle. The ferry we boarded to cross to Skye still captured a romantic echo of Bonnie Prince Charlie's flight to liberty. The modern road bridge, eventually built to replace the crossing, rather takes the fire out of the legend. Speaking of fire, I still have a lump of peat from the Isle of Skye on my bookshelf. (I doubt that it would have got through current NZ Customs security). Our task for the moment was finding a place to pitch the tent for the night and, over following days, we would revisit Edinburgh, then return to London where our tour began on July 18.]