S. Sudalaimuthu Lecturer, Department of Business, Bharathiar University, Coimbatore-64046. Email ID: sm_vcas@yahoo.co.in Mobile: 09842063718N. Vadivu Research Scholar, Department of Business, Bharathiar University, Coimbatore-64046 Email: vadivu_pogo@yahoo.co.in Mobile: 09944301499

Introduction to the textile industry: Textiles have become an important reference source for cultural studies due to their universality. Textiles are always draped over the body, whether it is people/gods/animals, floors or furniture. Unlike textiles such as stone, clay, and metal, they are traditionally made of biodegradable materials. Cotton (natural cellulose fiber), silk, and wool (natural protein fiber) are the three main textile materials except bast fiber and leaf fiber. Initially very simple techniques were used to manufacture textiles. The most basic skill is spinning fibers into yarns and then turning them into fabrics through a process called weaving. The tools used for weaving and spinning still use biodegradable materials such as wood in many parts of India. There are very few references to fabric making techniques in archaeological excavations. Together with their manufacturing tools, fabric materials have long been degraded in our tropical climate. Textiles are composed of fibers, yarns, fabrics and finishing agents. Each of these stages has various processes involved in the next stage. To this day, hands and feet are still tools of various crafts, supported by materials such as wood, terracotta, metal, yarn, beads, semi-precious stones, and colors. The concept of Indian textile technology is closely related to manufacturing and decoration. Therefore, this can be studied in a chronological framework from archaeological past to contemporary. Regional development is very typical for certain manufacturing and decoration styles of textiles.

VII Test, detection and quality monitoring equipment Cotton contamination analyzer Fiber neps, foreign particles and seed coat fragments are visible foreign matter in cotton. These foreign bodies can affect the appearance of yarns and fabrics and reduce the efficiency of the machine. In order to analyze these contaminants, the analyzer is composed of microcards, which can convert raw cotton into a thin and uniform fiber web without removing impurities. It is also scanned by a CCD camera and processed by an imaging system. The size and number classify the bad particles. This information will provide important feedback to improve the cotton material, efficiency and quality in the open-cleaning and carding process. The design and development of a pilling tester using digital image processing (DIP) technology. The technology comes from IIT Delhi’s development of a pilling tester based on digital image processing for objective evaluation of pilling rather than subjective and visual comparison. After successful development, it is expected that international standards such as BS, ASTM, DIN, IS will be included in the development as new standards for pilling evaluation. The main function of the pilling tester is to test the pilling (pilling) characteristics of fabrics and knitted fabrics. When simulating the wear and tear of the weaving material, the phenomenon of lint will appear. The sample is rolled around the rubber tube and rotated in the winding box for a period of time, and then compared with the standard picture to determine its grade. The test result is usually determined after comparing with the standard picture. Each sample is the average of four tests. But this development involves converting the raised fabric sample into a digital image and storing it in the memory by the image acquisition element. The image will be processed to obtain various parameters, such as no. Pills, total pilling area, average pill area and none. The number of pills per unit area. C. Technical/process description of textile testing equipment for strength testing and impurity analysis: MAG provides complete instrument analysis solutions. It has more than 65 products covering all areas of the textile industry. Its manufacturing facilities are supported by hybrid workshop machines and spider web procurement. The Mag R&D department is well-equipped. It can not only design, develop and produce conventional types of instruments, but also customize equipment and software according to the specific needs of customers. The company focuses on providing testing solutions for the textile industry through the latest microcomputer technology, not just testing instruments.

Outstanding features: It is planned to develop rapier looms, air jet looms, supporting heavy-duty dobby machines, jacquard machines, color selection machines and other ancillary equipment. Other details are as follows: Rapier: double rapier, 76" width, 250 RPM with tappet, 8-color weft, positive tappet. • Output is about 100% higher than power looms • Cost is about 40% of imported looms • 95 can achieve -98% fabric realization • Labor productivity is 5 times that of ordinary power looms • Space requirement is 30% less than power looms • Added value increased, easy to maintain • Can be used with any fabric, friendly to the loom • Unit cost The cost of the machine is 400,000 rupees Air-Jet: 76" width, 350 rpm, positive cam opening, single color • The output is about 200% higher than the power loom • The cost is about 40% of the imported loom, which is good Imported substitutes • 95-98% of fabrics can be achieved, while power looms are 80-85% • Labor productivity is 10 times that of ordinary power looms` • Space requirements are 30% less than power looms • Unit cost of the machine It will be Rs. 400,000 dobby: 16 and 24 jacks and jacquard: 1200 hooks • Weft seeking system will be introduced. • The cost of dobby and jacquard machines is only 20-30% of imported products. • More added value due to the high design capacity of 1,200 hooks. • Capable of operating at higher speeds. At present, the slow-speed rapier loom has been successfully developed and its performance is evaluated in the factory. Now the company is developing high-speed rapier looms and its supporting equipment. The design, development and manufacture of VI PROCESSING continuous bleaching series: Bleaching includes cleaning, removing dirt, natural oils, removing the inherent luster of fibers, making fiber fur soft and swelling with water absorption. However, all bleaching processes are carried out in batches, so the uniformity of fabric preparation becomes difficult to achieve. The current trend is to adequately prepare long fabrics in the early stages of processing so that the final dye or printed fabrics and even all-white materials have high quality. Therefore, the continuous bleaching range becomes very useful in meeting these needs. The development under this project integrates all stages of bleaching, ie. Desizing, washing and chemical applications for bleaching and neutralization. Therefore, the process will end in 2 hours compared to the 36 hours of batch processing. The automatic chemical dosing system reduces residence time and reliance on supervision. A full series has been manufactured and is under observation for performance evaluation.

Technical/Product Specifications: 1. Debris Analyzer•It is used to determine the percentage of lint, debris, dust and particles in the sample. The sample may be raw cotton, open-clean cotton or carding sliver. • 50/100 g sample, opening speed is 16 g lint per minute. • It is based on the carding principle and has an independent dust collection system, which can effectively separate lint and non-lint components. • Its compact, aerodynamic shape, silent operation and non-polluting features improve the laboratory environment. • Separate spring-loaded and segmented finger feeders provide better grip and thus better openings. • The most advanced microcomputer control technology makes a user-friendly operating system based on a digital display possible. • Solid-state control circuitry improves feasibility and operator safety. 2. Fiber fineness tester • The fiber fineness I is accurately measured based on the micronaire value. • Measurement range: The micronaire value of 3.24 / 5 grams of sample is 2.2 to 8.0. • This is based on the principle of air flow, measured by a rotameter. • Micro-filtered airflow and built-in calibration system ensure the accuracy of the results. • Compact desktop, portable design, can automatically eject test samples. 3. Fiber Bundle Strength Tester• Accurately measure the strength and elongation of the fiber bundle at the same time. • The strength measurement range is 2.0 to 7.0 kg, and the elongation range is as high as 50%. • It is based on the principle of constant loading rate (CRL) and ranges between 1 kg/sec and 7 kg/sec. • Mature concept, elegant design and various accessories make testing easier and faster.

4. Electric stranded wire strength tester•It is used to accurately measure the strength and elongation of stranded wire. • The test strength can reach 500 pounds, and the elongation rate can reach 300 mm. • Rugged steel structure and maintenance-free self-lubricating drive device ensure silent, trouble-free and long-life operation. • It can be wall-mounted and works according to the principle of constant elongation (CRE). • It has a capacity of 400 pounds and a resolution of 0.1 pounds. • A microprocessor-based solid-state control circuit with a large digital phosphor display ensures greater flexibility. • It has a computer connection for data processing 5. Multi-count balance • It determines the yarn count, hank and GSM. • It is based on the proven principle of accurate air density measurement. • Yarn count numbering system can be selected as Tex, Den, Tj, Nec, Nek, Nes, Nm, Nef and NSS, in addition to 3 user-defined units. Measure the GSM of fabric, paper and cardboard. • Computer connection supports statistics and graphical reports. 6. Electronic Yarn Twist Tester• Accurately measure the twist of single, ply and OE yarn samples. • Direct TPI / TPM / TT results are displayed in digital form for the selected gauge length, avoiding manual calculation. • Working principle: direct counting and single and multiple untwisting-twisting methods. • It uses a unique tension mechanism, which is suitable for testing various yarns. • Silent and integrated motor operation with automatic stop system for accurate measurement. • The key parameters that can be preset are stored in the CMOS memory without battery power supply to improve durability.

7. Multiple strength measurement purposes: to determine various physical properties of fabrics and clothing. Capacity: a) Load/force: 50/250/500 kg. b) Jaw distance: 0 to 600 mm. c) Moving speed: 50 to 500 mm per minute. The principle of constant elongation (CRE). Optional force unit: kg/lb/newton. Selectable elongation unit: mm/inch/percent. The rugged type and ergonomic design can extend the life cycle. The most advanced microcomputer control technology is conducive to the following aspects:-a) No independent test of the computer system is required; b) User-friendly menu-driven operating system; c) Flexible setting of parameters through the navigation keyboard. A separate calibration program makes the calibration fast and reliable. Special jaws/fixtures suitable for standard test methods. Computer connection and special software facilitate statistics and graphical reports. The software package includes 1) Counting analysis: * Counting types: Imperial Count-NEC, Worsted Count-New, Danier, Tex, Dtex and Metric Count-Nm. 2) Intensity analysis: * Automatically select the intensity unit in pounds or kilograms 3) CSP analysis (minimum counting and intensity): * Automatic, manual, automatic counting-manual intensity and manual counting-automatic intensity input mode 4) GSM analysis : *Common features of automatic and manual modes: *Automatic and manual input modes. * Statistical output: average value, RH correction, SD, CV%, Q95±, minimum value. & Maximum. value. * All reports in daily, weekly, monthly, frame by frame, within spool, * between spool, intra and inter formats. * Graphic output: itinerary and histogram. * Long-term storage format. Optional supplies: Seam slip module (ASTM D434 / 1683, BS 3320, IWSTM 117) Single yarn strength module (ASTM D2256 IS 1670) Tearing test module (ISO 13937-2, 3, 4, ASTM D2261 / 558303 BS Button / Tension Test (ASTM D4846)-USD Peel Strength (ASTM D2724) Zipper Strength (ASTM D2061)

8. PERSPIROMETER • Used to determine the color fastness of textiles caused by water and sweat. • It is a complete stainless steel structure with individual load weights for corresponding standards.

9. Fabric stiffness tester•It is used to measure the bending length, bending stiffness and bending modulus of fabric. • Provide sample cutting template and scale.

10: Sample dyeing machine• High temperature and high pressure beaker dyeing machine, suitable for dyeing fabric and yarn samples for laboratory applications. • Capacity: 250mlx12 beaker; 500mlx12 beaker; 1000mlx12 beaker. • Perform ramp and soak operations based on PID control algorithm to replicate large amounts of dyeing. • It includes a digital process timer with stirring rotor movement and inching device for easy loading/unloading of the beaker. • The entrance/drain faucet and hinged cover are interlocked with safety switches to increase operator flexibility. • Rugged, ergonomic design, all stainless steel structure.

11. Shrinkage rate tester•It is used to measure the dimensional changes of fabrics after washing, dry cleaning, etc. • A template and shrinkage scale made of a transparent polymer plate apply standard pressure to the sample. • Available models: 25x25, 35x35, 50x50 cm and all-in-one sizes

VIII Dyeing and printing: Durable non-woven fabrics can be dyed, printed and finished in roughly the same way as other textiles using the same type of equipment used to process traditional textiles. However, in most cases, the non-woven fabric structure may be composed of two or three different materials, thereby increasing the complexity of the product. Non-woven fabrics are processed, laminated and coated to add value, creating products suitable for a variety of applications from specialty bedding and curtains to furniture manufacturing. Examples of end uses include: medical fabrics; wipes; mattresses; bedding for incontinence protection; and curtains with antistatic, non-slip, waterproof, antibacterial or flame retardant and/or breathable properties.

IX Finishing has developed a solution based on a digital control system that can automatically eliminate the skew and bending deformation caused by the fabric passing through the tenter. Its main features are high-sensitivity solid-state power supply detectors, intelligent signal processing to automatically adapt to various fabrics, automatic light intensity control and information distortion, ultra-fast line speed response to control signals, etc. It is also equipped with a slit scanner, which can scan and calibrate up to 320 degrees. Regardless of the fabric running speed and the nature of the fabric, it can provide perfect operation at a speed of 10 to 250 m/min. The latitude deflection can be corrected up to 32 degrees. The system has been successfully evaluated by acrylic blankets, shirts and cushions. 4 units have been exported to Egypt and 9 units have been sold in India

Using Computers in Textiles and Industry Cad is an industry-specific design system that uses computers as tools. CAD is used to design anything from airplanes to knitwear. At first, CAD was used to design high-precision machinery, but it has also found its use in other industries. In the 1970s, it entered the textile and apparel industry. Most foreign companies have now integrated some form of CAD into their design and production processes. In fact, according to the National Knitwear Association, among 228 apparel manufacturers: 65% use CAD to create color methods 60% use CAD to create printed fabric designs 48% use CAD to create merchandise displays 41% use CAD to create knitwear designs If designers have the time and freedom to be creative and experiment with computers, the choices and visual possibilities can be limitless. Today in our country, automation is not only used to replace labor, but also to improve quality and production quantity in a shorter period of time. However, the quality of the CAD system depends on the designer's level of work. Computers will only speed up the process of repetitive production, color changes, and pattern processing. In fact, the CAM aspect of CAD will help shorten delivery time.

Types of CAD systems Textile design systems: Designers and sellers use woven textiles for home furnishing fabrics and men's and women's children's clothing. Most fabrics, whether it is yarn dyes, plain weaves, jacquard fabrics or dobby machines, can be designed and in fact, textile CAD systems are always used abroad. Similar embroidery is also developed on the CAD workstation. Knitted fabrics: Some systems specializing in knitwear production can view the final knitting design on the screen and display all stitch formation. For example, a CAD program will generate a pullover chart that will indicate the number of yarns required for the color of each piece of clothing. Another example of a new technology in the industry is the use of a yarn scanner connected to a computer to scan a kilometer of yarn and then simulate a knitted/woven fabric on the screen. The simulation will show the appearance of the fabric woven from this yarn. C. Printed fabrics: This process involves the use of computers in the design, development, and processing of patterns. The pattern can then be resized, recolored, rotated or multiplied according to the designer's goals. The texture and weave structure can be indicated so that the printed output on paper or actual fabric looks very similar to the appearance of the final product. The textile design system can immediately display the color scheme without spending hours on hand-painting. The new system will be launched soon. They have built-in software that can automatically match the color of the swatch with the color of the screen and the color of the printer, that is, what you see is what you get. d. Illustration/sketch board systems: These are graphic programs that allow designers to use a pen or stylus on an electronic board or tablet to create a hand-drawn image, which is then stored in the computer. The final product is no different from a sketch drawn on paper with a pencil. They have the additional advantage of improvement and manipulation. Different knitting and weaving simulations can be stored in a library and imposed on these sketches to show texture and size. e. Texture mapping: 3D three-dimensional cutting software This technology can realize the visualization of the fabric on the body. Texture mapping is a process by which the fabric can be overlaid on the form in a realistic way. The pattern outline of the cloth matches the shape below. The designer starts with an image of a model wearing a costume. Every part of the garment is outlined from seam line to seam line. Then spread the new fabric swatches created in the textile design system on the area, and the computer will automatically fill the area with the new color or pattern. The result is the original silhouette of the original model wearing the new fabric. F. Embroidery system The design used for embroidery can be combined with the fabric used to make the garment. For this, a special computerized embroidery machine is used. Designers can create their embroidery designs or patterns directly on the computer, or they can use scanned images of existing designs. All they need to do is assign colors and stitches to different parts of the design. These data are then sent to an embroidery machine with one or more heads for stitching.

Conclusion: If Indian industry must do this, then modernizing through automation may not be a difficult task. Therefore, before our entire industry begins to shrink, these industries urgently need to cheer up and take action. The level of technology related to textile machinery automation has undergone great changes, and local efforts are close to the machine technology manufactured in advanced industrial countries. A large and continuous effort has been made to strengthen local efforts and technical support. Today, major manufacturers supply modern machines. Indian textile machinery manufacturers can produce precision machines (higher speed and output) at competitive prices, provided that technical support and economic and sustained demand are coming. Microprocessors and computers have a place in modern machines. Most of the latest technologies in the field of automation are mainly focused on making the new version more flexible, energy-efficient and perfect. One can only hope and hope that future changes will become better, because the voice in the ongoing battle is "modernization or destruction." Reference: Books: Textile Testing-P. Angappan & R. Gopalakrishnan Textile Technology Manual-W. Klein Spinning Process Control-Subramanian Journal: Indian Industrial Survey 2007 Website: http://www.indianscience.org/projects/t_pr_gupta_textile.shtml http://www.textileworld.com www.textileworldasia.com www.brittanyusa.com/nice3.htm www.iscc.org www.google.com http://www.dsir.gov.in/reports /ExpTechTNKL/Abs %20new/MAG.htm www.rieter.com www.techexchange.com

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Textile industry technology: Once considered a handicraft, textile technology has now become a highly complex scientific and engineering activity involving new types of fibers and technologies. This field covers different engineering fields, such as mechanical, electrical, computer, chemistry, instrumentation, electronics and structural engineering. As a part of textile technology, clothing and fashion technology have become important activities in clothing design, production and marketing. All of these require knowledge of the latest technology, and today's textile design students are ready to meet the challenge. Especially the knitwear and processing industries are witnessing tremendous changes.

The textile industry in India is one of the oldest. It provides direct employment for nearly 30 million people. In recent years, yarn exports have increased from 485,000 tons (valued at 58.6 billion rupees) in 1997-98 to 554,000 tons (valued at 6674 billion rupees) in 1999-2000. The textile exhibition held every year showcases the new technologies and developments in the industry, including weaving, knitting, testing, printing and dyeing.

Technical textiles not only provide excellent opportunities for the revival of India's textile industry, but also provide new directions, new methods and methods for maintaining and prospering in the near future. It is estimated that between 1995 and 2005, industrial textiles will increase by an average of 4%. It is expected to increase from 42 million US dollars in 1995 to 6 million US dollars by 2005. Some machines are included in various sectors of the textile industry, such as: • clearing room • carding • carding • weaving • bleaching • testing • finishing and helping the number of computers using computer-aided design I BLOWROOM is expected to run smoothly. Any malfunction of the cleaning machine will quickly make ten to twenty cards immovable. Therefore, a high degree of reliability is one of the first tasks. Defective materials produced by open-cleaning cotton may cause huge indirect costs. This type of error must be avoided at the beginning of the processing sequence. Every opener cleaner puts extra pressure on your fibers; therefore, the cleaning must be exactly matched to the raw materials. In each cleaning process, the amount of waste, fiber damage, and loss of healthy fibers are all interdependent. More agitators cannot improve the cleaning performance, but can only be achieved by increasing the strength of the agitator. Although higher drum speeds do result in more intensive cleaning, they also put more pressure on the fibers. The waste material and its composition can be optimally matched according to the requirements of your spinning operation. You can choose whether you want light-colored garbage or dark-colored garbage...

The highlight of the needle is used as the first or only opening position. For microfibers, in principle, a second opening position is required. However, if the equipment is also used for coarse fibers, a bypass should be provided. In each further cleaning stage, the opening of the cotton will increase, so the dot density of the roller becomes finer (that is, in the case of a serrated roller, the number of card clothing increases). The cotton cutting roll uses a 10° cutting angle; for man-made fibers and the mixture of cotton and man-made fibers, a roll with a cutting angle of 0° is used.

»Intensive opening into small pieces» Consistent opening and better cleaning effect »No damage to fibers, reducing neps» Maintain fiber firmness and elasticity »Adaptation to the treatment of production materials II Carding: The requirements for the quality of carding slivers are constantly increasing. Ring spinning mills want to have as few neps as possible in the carded sliver, while retaining the properties of natural fibers, such as fiber length, hardness and elasticity. Fiber preservation, that is, the minimum shortening of short fibers is particularly important. In addition, rotor spinning requires very pure sliver and low dust content, otherwise deposits will accumulate in the rotor groove. The TREX system (TREX = Trash Extraction) improves fine cleaning by using additional suction points in the working area of ​​the cylinder. It removes rubbish, dust and short fibers very reliably. Combinations of carding elements and guiding elements can adopt a variety of card clothing bars and special arrangements of integrated knives to optimize the carding process to meet your requirements. For C 4, C 50 and C 51 carding machines, TREX elements can be installed in the pre- and post-carding areas. In the pre-carding zone, the tufts are opened correctly. In this way, the card clothing is protected and treated gently. The fiber bales conveyed by the licker roller to the cylinder are broken in this area. Any remaining garbage particles can then be eliminated more effectively through the tablet. In the post-carding zone, the arrangement of the fibers is improved by "final combing" or "combing". This is also the area where highly integrated dust particles are dispersed and removed. Unlike the particle knives that are usually used with air cylinders, TREX uses special guide elements. This significantly improves the choice of garbage and dust removal. The waste component is up to 15% garbage, seed coat fragments, fiber fragments and dust. The advantages of TREX are obvious in the types of fibers removed: 75% of which are short fibers. Short fibers in carded silver filaments can be reduced by up to 6%, and defects in yarns can be reduced by up to 15%. III Combing: The characteristic of the circular comb series is the combination of tried and proven state-of-the-art solutions. The correct circular comb lays the foundation for first-class fiber selection and economic production. All types of circular combs have accurate card clothing indexing, including the number and depth of card clothing. It provides you with a variety of types, whether it is related to segment design or work surface, and has nothing to do with the raw materials to be processed. You will be pleased to find that nep, snickers and peas are a thing of the past. The full range of circular combs meets all his combing needs. The combing surface is 90° and 111°, and the applicable range is from 1 inch to 1 9/16 for staple fibers, and 22% for combing nails.

»Carding area increased by 23% Staple fiber length greater than 1 ¼”» Thick spots in the yarn reduced by up to 18% »Neps in the yarn reduced by up to 25% Staple fiber length less than 1 ¼”» Neps reduced Up to 10% of short fibers, neps and impurities in the yarn are extracted from the back of the fiber tuft. This completes the work of the round comb perfectly. The top comb can provide a range of needle densities to meet your individual requirements for combed noil, as well as the cotton being processed or any combing quality required. Extremely tough, ideal hardening and excellent self-cleaning effect are additional reasons to support the top comb. IV Spinning: Countless spinning systems appeared in the 1970s, such as non-twisted spinning, self-twisted spinning, colored yarn, composite yarn, wrapped yarn, tank spinning, continuous felt yarn; and many possible variants of open-end spinning, Examples include rotor spinning, electrospinning, friction spinning and vortex spinning (the original "Polish" system). At the same time, ring spinning technology has continued to develop, including rotating ring spinning systems, single-spindle drives, high drafting systems, improved travellers, double roving spinning and hybrid systems. Looking at the industry today, you will find that although some systems have established a successful but smaller niche market-wrapping spinning for fancy yarns and friction spinning for special industrial markets-they are very Few systems survive. In fact, the same is true for the manufacturers of these machines. It represents the current product of the spinning machine and its comparative spinning speed. The number of spinning positions of the main technologies and their share in the spinning market. Obviously, in terms of the number of installed spindles, ring spinning is still the most important spinning system-the number of spindles is about three times that of the installed rotor. If judged based on the number of yarns produced, it is obvious that even if the rotor position is only 1/3 installed, the number of yarns produced by rotor spinning is three times that of ring spinning.

One. Ring spinning The technology behind ring spinning has remained basically the same for many years, but has improved significantly. The changes themselves provide only minor advantages, but combined can produce the following synergistic effects: • The introduction of a longer frame reduces the relative cost of automatic doffing. • The combination of spinning frame and winder (chain winder) has further increased the adoption rate of automation. • The introduction of automatic doffing means that the doffing time is reduced, so the package (and ring) size is no longer so important. • The introduction of splicing on the winder means that yarn splicing becomes less noticeable-again offering the potential for smaller packages. • A smaller ring means that for a limited traveller speed (40 meters per second [m/s]), a higher rotation speed (and therefore twist rate) can be achieved. These combinations mean that the potential maximum speed of ring spinning has increased from 15,000 revolutions per minute to 25,000 revolutions per minute. There are other proposed development projects with varying successes. Drafting system: Although double apron drafting is dominant, the system can be adjusted to achieve higher drafting. The most recent exhibition showed the machine operating at a potential draught of 70 to 100. The use of high drafts has a major impact on the economics of the entire system. Separate spindle drive: Some manufacturers proved this possibility in the 1980s. Although this concept has advantages in terms of lower energy requirements, lower noise and better speed control, it has a higher initial cost and a larger spindle pitch. V WEAVING: ITMA (Trademark Attorneys Association) brought significant technological advancements to weavers in 2003, helping them to electronically control their machines through a user-friendly interface, producing a wide range of woven fabrics, and producing commercial fabrics Manufacture complex jacquard designs faster, form leno fabrics faster, inspect fabrics on the loom, use optical and laser warp detection, reduce downtime by providing a higher level of automation, and implement fast styles and warp beams replace. The success of the weaving and weaving preparation machinery manufacturer at ITMA 2003 may be attributed to the progress that has been achieved to provide weavers with low power consumption, flexibility and versatility while weaving at high speeds. Although there are no loom manufacturers, a large number of machines are displayed on ITMA. The weaving speed and weft insertion rate (RFI) are approximately the same as the machines shown on ITMA '99. Nowadays, the cost of jacquard weaving is almost the same as the cost of weaving commercial fabrics. In addition, the types of fabrics woven on ITMA 2003 are wider than ever before, characterized by complex designs and industrial applications. Design and development of shuttleless looms and auxiliary equipment India has the largest loom installation base in the world. But with China (6.35%), Indonesia (9.28%), Pakistan (4.26%), Japan (15.3%), Russia (77.97%) and the United States (90.67%). Due to the obsolete technology of Indian looms, it is impossible to carry out value-added and fabric manufacturing according to the customer's compliance. Therefore, the current power loom industry must be modernized with cost-effective shuttleless looms suitable for Indian conditions.

One. Air jet loom: The air jet loom is characterized by jetting compressed air, which is used to insert the weft yarn into the warp. Air jet looms have high productivity, but their functions are not as good as rapier looms. They are best suited for lightweight fabrics. They have moderate versatility and can be used to produce a variety of fabrics, although heavy fabrics such as denim can significantly increase energy consumption. Energy consumption is relatively high (compared to rapier or waterjet), but due to the relatively small number of moving parts, the replacement cost of spare parts is relatively low. They require considerable infrastructure, including air compressors and high-pressure air pipes, before they can be put into use. The cost of this infrastructure may account for 5% to 25% of the value of the entire machine. Generally, they are used by weavers to meet the predictable and constant demand for specific fabrics. They are produced by Promatech, Picanol, Dornier, Tsudakoma and Toyota. Sultex Ltd., headquartered in Switzerland, is also a member of the ITEMA Group, showing the other of the two widest jets. The new 5.4-meter-wide L9400 P 540 N 2 L woven leno fabric used for carpet backing on display has a reed width of 5.33 meters and a speed of 420 ppm, that is, an RFI of 2,238 m/min. At the Stäubli booth, Sultex demonstrated another fast jet-L5400 S 210 N 4 SP TL-weaving women's clothing fabrics with a 2.1-meter-wide reed and a speed of 990 ppm, which means an RFI of 2,079 m/min. Projectile loom: The projectile loom is characterized by the projectile loom, which is used to insert the weft yarn into the warp. Projectile looms are more expensive, have a wide range of applications and low energy consumption, and are suitable for the production of medium and high-end textiles. Projectile looms can adapt to larger widths than other looms. Their service life is also longer than any other loom. Projectile looms have similar technical characteristics to rapier looms, but they are also much more expensive than most other looms (except multiphase looms). Due to its relatively high price and average productivity level, projectile looms are a niche market product. This machine is almost entirely produced by Sulzer. As usual, Sultex is the only company to showcase the projectile loom. Two machines are on display. The fastest is its P7300 B 390 N 4 SP D12, which is a 3.9-meter-wide machine that demonstrates the knitting of five-thread cotton satin cloth with a reed width of 3.51 meters and a speed of 370 ppm, corresponding to 1,300 m/min RFI. The machine is equipped with a four-weft insertion device with separate yarn feeders, yarn guides and tension control for each yarn. Considering that the actual filling and insertion rate of four simultaneous insertions is 5,200 m/min. The other machine is the P73 RSP B 360 N 4 SP D12, which demonstrated the weaving of cotton canvas with a 3.65 m wide reed and a speed of 330 ppm, corresponding to an RFI of 1,205 m/min.

C. Rapier loom: The forward rapier loom is the most versatile loom. Weft insertion is achieved by using a metal chuck called a rapier, which pulls the weft to the center of the loom, where it is actively transferred to another rapier head to bring it to the other side of the loom. The rapier head is mounted on the rod. They are intended for the production of high-quality professional textiles. The level of productivity is lower than that of negative rapier looms, and the relatively high energy consumption makes them more expensive machines not only to buy but also to run. They are currently produced by Dornier and to a lesser extent by Promatech and Panter. The negative rapier loom ranks second in terms of versatility (after the positive rapier loom), capable of producing beautifully designed high-quality fabrics. Weft insertion is achieved by using metal chucks called rapiers, one of which transfers the weft to the center of the loom, where it is passively transferred to the other rapier, bringing it to the other side of the loom. The design and development of the rapier head itself involves complex technologies, including patents and proprietary technologies. The rapier head is mounted on the belt. These machines are moderately priced and have average energy consumption and average speed. They are mainly produced by Promatech, Sulzer, Picanol, and to a lesser extent by Panter. Tsundakoma specializes in the production of a limited number of negative rapier looms for the Japanese market, which are used to produce traditional Japanese textiles. d. New jacquard shed concept: The shed formation in UNISHED (shown installed on Dornier LWV6/J air-jet loom) is realized by using leaf springs. Each leaf spring is connected to a heddle, which controls a warp end. The leaf spring controlled by the actuator controls the bottom and top sheds (positive jacquard shed type). The configuration of the jacquard head and the individual control of each heald (or warp end) allow the healds to be set vertically. These settings eliminate the need for wiring harnesses, magnets, hooks, pulleys, springs, and gantry frames. This leads to lower construction and air conditioning costs. The jacquard head is directly installed on the side frame of the loom, so it is possible to realize quick type change (QSC) in jacquard weaving, because the replacement of the entire jacquard head (including healds) is easy. The wire harness (or warp end) selection is done electronically, so the fabric design is realized in the same way as any other current electronic jacquard system. The size of the jacquard head-the width of the jacquard head and the tie is the same as the width of the reed-and the control of each warp end by a stepper motor allows the wire harness to be set vertically. The design of UNIVAL 100 does not require hooks, knives, magnets and pulleys, because each harness or heald is directly connected to the stepper motor.

UNIVAL 100 seems to have made significant progress. In fact, it shows the highest weft insertion rate in the history of jacquard weaving. UNIVAL design provides weavers with unprecedented new opportunities for jacquard sheds. Using such a system, the height of the shed can be easily set, and multiple sheds can be formed. All settings can be made electronically through the user interface, without mechanical adjustments. Another distinguishing feature of UNIVAL is that it is independent of the loom drive, because it has its own drive and has no mechanical coupling with the loom. According to Stäubli, UNIVAL's modular structure can achieve a jacquard capacity range of 5,120 to 20,480 warps (stepper motors). The Swiss Jakob Muller AG Frick demonstrated MDL/C for the first time, which is an impressive new sling-free jacquard opening concept (international patent pending), which represents one of the main attractions of this ITMA. The shed concept is based on the individual electronic selection of warp yarns using special healds. The company demonstrated the system on its MDL/C labeling machine. The machine does not have traditional jacquard heads, harnesses or combed plates. In addition, the new concept eliminates the need for hooks, pulleys and return springs. Through this elimination, machine parts and dimensions are significantly reduced. Although the machine is still under development and has not yet been put into commercial use, it worked efficiently during a brief presentation by ITMA. Other features of MDL/C include: the use of needles for weft insertion to form a soft selvedge; up to eight colors of wefts; and electronic warp tension adjustment and control.

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